Monday, February 2, 2009

We finished A LONG time ago.............sorry.

Ok, we never finished the blog. We know we feel terrible. We are alive and well and since our last post we have done the following:

-Called her quits on the quest for Newfoundland and instead rapped up the trap by instead renting a car and touring more of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.

-Made a ten month pit-stop in Montreal before returning to the West coast.

-Set up again in Vancouver with Fraser Munn as our stupendous new roomate (feels more like a brother than anything else). We've found a place on Main Street. We absolutely love it and plan on being here for a long time.

-Brandon finally admitted to and succumbed to his passion for food and is now enrolled in a wonderful, and highly regarded Culinary Arts program that happens to be 5-blocks from our house.

-Katie finally stopped fighting her desire to be a doctor and has been accepted into the Boucher Institute of Naturopathy where she will begin a four year ND program in September.

-Brandon finally proposed outside of Notre Dame Basilica last winter and the wedding is set for July 25.

So we've come along way and we really appreciate everyone who lent their support to us over those four months. And we really do apologize profusely to anyone who may have thought that we fell off the face of the earth, or that Katie was pregnant or any of the other horrible rumours we heard. All we can say is thank you for sticking with us.

B&K

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

Day 115 - 118: Dartmouth Bed Rest

Clearly one night was not enough bed rest. Though our B&B provided a warm, clean and cozy refuge to aid in the recovery process Katie awoke the first morning a nauseous mess. She’s still in much the same state. Certain foods make her stomach churn on sight and even those foods that don’t, still churn her stomach upon arriving in it. As you might imagine, four days without being able to eat properly makes for one exhausted Katie.

Halifax was only a 5 minute, $2 ferry ride from Dartmouth but, even still, only once in our four days here was Katie well enough for us to make the trek into town. The Dartmouth public library, on the other hand, was just down the road from our B&B and became our full time office. The librarians began greeting us with recognition, saving their “how may I help yous?” for the locals. Our one health splurge into town.

Though Katie was barely well enough to eat, the lure of free high speed internet, burnable cds, photogenic recipe magazines and, of course, books were enough to get her out of bed every day. We may not have covered any distance during our time in Dartmouth but we have conducted some very important business such as finding Montreal apartments, booking train rides etc.

For reasons that only make sense to El Cheapos such as ourselves, we decided that Katie was well enough to move back into the tent after three nights in the B&B. We think that it’s probably half because we’re so cheap and half because we were so excited about moving to this particular campsite. Squatting in the city is not exactly easy due to the density of the population and the lack of hiding places. Compounding the problem was our lack of navigational knowledge regarding the area. Our solution: taking squatting to a whole new level. We discovered that the satellite images on google earth are of such a high resolution that you can choose a campsite with pinpoint accuracy. Squatter friendly coniferous forests are just as clearly depicted as multi-acre apartment complexes. Within minutes we had located the nearest forest area and even what looked like a walking trail leading into it.

We have spent our last two nights camping just off that walking trail. Seeing as how Katie really isn’t getting better (in fact sometimes it seems as though she is getting worse), our wallets are getting very thin and both of us really are running out of steam, we think that the last leg of our trip may be nearer than we thought.

B&K

Saturday, September 29, 2007

Day 114: Enfield - Dartmouth

km today: 41.13
total km: 7624.33

Turtle Power!

We’ve decided that we have to do more cycle touring after this trip because we’ve only just perfected all of the tricks of the trade in terms of cheap living. Squatting is a good start, but squatting right next to trucker stops where showers are available is like staying in an all inclusive free of charge. We had to pay for the showers of course, but the provision of free wireless internet and the use of the lounge with cable T.V. while waiting for the shower to be cleaned (a regular occurrence to keep them up to standard) made it seem free.

Squatting now requires no effort whatsoever. In fact, we really do enjoy it more than staying in a campground. We just realized that we’ve gone two solid weeks now without paying for a night. We love it.

Our ride was short today, but it wasn’t quick. We set off on a late departure into the wind and soon discovered that Katie’s stomach was less than thrilled with its breakfast. We took it quite slow and easy to avoid making things worse and decided that it was definitely time to break our squatting streak. Katie was in need of a couple of days off in doors, with a real bed and access to a hot shower. Out came the trusty Lonely Planet and the cell phone. Only moments later we had contacted, literally, every Halifax/Dartmouth hotel, hostel, and B&B listed in the guide book and found that not one of them had any availability. It’s mid week in late September. Why Halifax is the place to be right now, we couldn’t tell you. Once again, it seemed like we might be making our own campsite.

Thankfully, our luck turned as we neared the city. First it was with the spotting of a toonie on the busy Highway 118 shoulder, which, in turn led to the pulling over and spotting a beautiful scenic bike path directly adjacent to the busy Hwy 118. We happily took this path most of the way to the tourist info center where we quickly discovered that there are, in fact, far more accommodation establishments in Halifax and Dartmouth than just the ones listed in our guidebook. We are now staying at a very affordable Dartmouth B&B. We’ve just enjoyed our hot showers and are eagerly looking forward to enjoying our real bed.

Sunset over the "Lion's Gate Bridge" twin that links Dartmouth with Halifax.

B&K

Day 113: Truro - Enfield

km today: 52.12
total km: 7583.2

A sick turtle.

Katie’s health refuses to return. Though our squat site was quite pleasant (pic) her body could have used at least one night in doors. We decided that we better take it easy today. Only a km into our ride, we discovered the campground we had been searching for last night. Apparently our ride in the dark took us right through Truro and all the way to Hilden, about 8km beyond. Had we known we were so close to the Hilden campground, we’re sure we would have pushed on, lured by the prospect of a shower and the possibility of internet.

With the odd gingerale break and a couple of siestas we made it to Enfield without too much resistance from Katie’s stomach. According to our map, there was a tourist info center and a campground either in Enfield, or in the vicinity (these maps are very hard to read sometimes). After a consultation session with a cashier and all five locals in the lineup behind us at Home Hardware it was decided that the info center and, therefore, the internet was actually at the airport 6km away. The idea of blogging in the airport and then having to find a place to stay was very unappealing to us. It was also pointed out during the huddle that the Irving truck station en route to the airport was a good source for information. As the glowing Irving sign came into view we figured we may as well check it out, especially since another pit stop wouldn’t hurt. We’re glad we did. Posted on the doorway was a sign advertising “Free WiFi” and a quick investigation of the interior revealed other luxuries such as T.V. lounges, a convenience store sizable enough to provide produce and, most importantly, showers.

Autumn leaves.

The next task was finding a campsite. We figured that since it was such a warm evening another night in the tent would be ok on Katie’s ailing body. Especially when we found our campsite right across the street from the Irving. Seriously, we could poke our head out of the tent and see that monstrous sign glowing on the other side of our personal river side campsite.We think that it was probably one of the best campsites we’ve stayed at. We were wholly sheltered by coniferous and deciduous trees galore, had our own personal river and the walk to the Irving was no longer than to some of the bathrooms at some of the bonified campgrounds we’ve stayed at.

Feeling squeaky clean and wonderful, we went to bed happy and refreshed.

B&K

Day 112: Amhesrt - Truro

km today: 122.5
total km: 7531.0

We weren't kidding, the turtle is back in full force.

This morning's driveway.

Well, that wonderful smell of baking bread comes from the Wonderbread factory right next to our campsite! It got us thinking. How exactly does cheap factory bread taste when it’s fresh from the oven? We figure it must taste pretty good. Pretty much anything tastes good when it’s fresh from the oven.

Buying bread was actually the goal of our first stop of the day today. There was this brilliant “Ben’s Bakery Outlet” right across the street from our campsite. Over-supplied with cheap bread, we headed out toward Truro. Finally the wind was with us today! We just sailed along the highways. The first and last 1/3 of our journey was on Hwy 104 which is very much like the Island Highway in scenery and efficiency at getting you from point A to B. For the middle 1/3 of our journey though, we detoured onto Hwy 4. The woman at the bakery informed us that this section is the old highway, is much more scenic and avoids a very nasty hill section. The old and scenic part caught our attentions, but as soon as the word “hill” was mentioned we were all ears.

This little detour was a marvelous idea. The road was almost deserted and the scenery really was beautiful. The only unfortunate thing was that we were about 1 week early to witness the changing of leaves. Most importantly though, it seemed as though we went downhill far more than uphill. Our route only involved one major uphill section, a bump of a hill compared to some we’ve climbed, that was followed by an amazing 20 straight minutes of downhill. Not scary 17% grade downhill or anything like that either. It was so fun.

Clouds with real silver linings.

Just 1 week too early. We naively put the idea to rest that these leaves only turn brown.

Perfectly healthy for almost the whole day (the 11 hours of sleep probably helped some), we thought that Katie might be almost rid of her illness. But as we approached Truro her condition took a sharp turn for the worse. Deteriorating rapidly, we decided that taking a room in the nearest hotel was the best idea for the evening. The only problem, there was only one hotel that we passed and it had no vacancy. We couldn’t even find a campground, so it was back to squatting. Every single time we have tried to find a campground or a motel we’ve inevitably ended up back in the bush. At least we’re saving money.

B&K

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Day 111: Cape Jourimain - Amherst

km today: 63ish
total km: 7410ish

It's back!

A 6 pack of eggs and a pot of oatmeal fueled us off Robbie’s lawn and out of Cape Jourimain. We needed fuel today too as the wind that shook our tent and kept us up much of the night was still blowing strong today and, big surprise, it was blowing in our faces. Our pace wasn’t aided by Katie’s new bout of energy zapping sickness. Aches, pains, and nausea plagued her all day. Brandon would even go so far as to diagnose her with delirium. He was dumbfound and flabberghasted as he watched her take out her squeeze bottle of energy gel, take the lid off, turn it upside down, and proceed to squeeze it all over herself AND our Lonely Planet guidebook. Her intention was to take a drink of it but we guess she just forgot to hold it over her mouth. Never again will anyone turn to pages 394-395.

We'd heard from Reuben that New Brunswick bike trails have nothing on Quebec or P.E.I. trails and he was right. This one dissolved into loose gravel and big rocks after about 1km in.

The leaves are starting to change!

It was meant to be a short journey to the New Brunswick - Nova Scotia border, but seeing as how we had no full size highway map for New Brunswick we managed to over shoot our desired turn off by a good 20 km or so. This resulted in our riding a full 55km before finaly making it out of NB. Unfortunately, thanks to the combination of ailments that hindered us today it took us nearly four hours just to cover those 55km, and that was over fairly level ground! It was after 4:00 PM by the time we stepped into the Nova Scotia Info centre, and it was here that we held a lengthy discussion as to the design of our journey’s finale. The info centre lies close to 500 km away from the North Sydney ferry terminal.

We finally found a provincial sign. Who cares that it was on the opposite side of the Rrans Canada and oriented to the West.

We turned 180 degrees and found this, a much more impressive sign. It was kind of odd though, inside the lighthouse was a woman who just stared at us the whole time we were there.

Over a bag of trail mix, some leftover oatmeal, and a few pb^2s we came to a final decision. We’re saving Newfoundland for another time. Instead, we’re going to take a closer look at Nova Scotia and then return to the formerly neglected New Brunswick which houses our new final destination - St. John New Brunswick rather than St. John’s Newfound Land. As we’ve said we were at first disheartened by the prospect of a cross-Canada journey that discludes Newfound Land, but with Katie’s now diminishing health we don’t think that she could make it across those barren and mountainous 908 km.

We rolled into Amherst, ate some Tim Horton’s for dinner (which Katie’s stomach made her thoroughly regret later) and found a brilliant campsite that was right next to an aromatic bakery. Our nostrils were happy as we fell asleep.

B&K

Day 110: P.E.I. - Cape Jourimain

km today: 94.85
total km: 7343.3

We alerted everyone ahead of time that we were planning on making an early departure. It was just after 11:00 by the time we actually made it out the door. Knowing our habits well, no one had heeded our warning. It was difficult leaving the company of family, but we’re almost on the final stretch and if we hurry we’ll have time to get back to enjoy thanksgiving with family.


Following Gerhard’s instructions, we easily made it onto the Confederation Trail where we were treated to 93 km of peace and tranquility. The trail is far removed from civilization, running through wetlands, farmland and forests. It made it easy to cover the distance to the Confederation Bridge.

"Cruisin together."


At the bridge we summoned the shuttle bus (bikes are not allowed on the bridge). Robbie, our chatty chauffeur, patiently explained and answered the many questions we had regarding the currents, ocean depths and ice strain around the pillars of this 12.7 km monster that links P.E.I. with New Brunswick (it withstood the force of a 9km x 13km chunk of ice that was 3m thick without so much as a shudder).

Apparently Robbie took a liking to us and answered our question of where the grocery store was by offering to drive us straight to it, even though it is 9 km off the route. His kindness and generosity didn’t stop here as he also offered us the use of his grocery store adjacent (and campground adjacent for that matter) lawn as our campsite for the night.

So far we like New Brunswick. We haven’t found a provincial sign yet though.....

B&K