Thursday, September 27, 2007

Day 106: Magdelen Day Three

km today: 72.1
total km: 7145.5

Feeling ambitious, we packed up our campsite and readied ourselves to head north to the English speaking islands of the archipelago. After remaining stationary for two nights it must have been particularly strenuous for us to pack up because by the time we’d eaten breakfast, organized our gear, and made it onto the road we we’re already in need of a hearty lunch. Two litres of milk and a box of Corn Flakes later we were ready to begin our journey north.

Havre aux Maisons was the first island on our touring itinerary. Almost as soon as we arrived on the island, we detoured off the main highway onto a scenic coastal road. Our first pit stop was at their local fromagerie, or which the islanders are very proud. Unfortunately the white coated, hair netted and immaculately disinfected looking employees were busy in discussion within the factory itself, so no samples for us. From there it was onto the historic Herring smokehouse of which the islanders are also quite proud of. It’s the only one remaining from the glory days when smoking herring was a thriving industry. It’s been turned into a national historic site where a short informative tour is followed by a sampling of the different products.Very pleased with the samples, and informed that it went really well with beer, we made sure to pick up a package before continuing on our tour. Katie’s pretty sure that the excuse to try out some more of the delicious local beer may have been half the reason why Brandon was so gung ho to pick up a package. In the heyday these rafters was packed with skewers of herring.

Our tour of the eastern coast was delightful:
Typical island scene.

Katie's first steps into the Atlantic!

Different shapes appear in the cliffs with different light.

All of this because of erosion. So cool.

Katie vandalizing the sandstone in the background and the phosphorescent fungi in the foreground.

Brandon taking his turn to vandalize.

It was just too tempting....(etched with an open crab claw found dried on the beach)

The road heading north from Havre aux Maisons was completely uninhabited and flanked on one side by shimmering lagoons alive with birds and fish and crap (Brandon ran out of creativity and Katie thought this was literary gold)...........and flanked on the other side by wind shaped sandy dunes that would look more at home in the Sahara desert were it not for their thin cover of vegetation.

After about 10km we reached the tiny island Pointe aux Loups (it’s more like a mound of sand that is slightly larger and higher than the rest of the mounds of sand around it). It’s still beautiful though, as is everything around here. It was here that we discussed the fact that it was already 5:30 pm and we were only 1/3 of the way there. We took a quick browse of the Maison du Heron, an engrossing little gallery, and came out with an original greeting card. Figuring that this was good enough to validate our journey all the way out we turned around and headed back to our our cozy campsite on Cap aux Moules. Our day was quite eventful and we decided that a trip all the way to the north end would have entailed far more cycling than relaxing.Figuring that we cycle enough as it is, and finding the idea of relaxing far more enticing option, we came up with a new plan to spend our last day covering missed ground on Ile du Havre Aubert (the south island).

Can you see Katie?

B&K

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